anbhule paithani yeola

The rich-look Paithani sarees have a plain or spotted body, a characteristic square design with its variations on the coloured borders and a typical Peacock design on the pallu or end-piece.

Known for the more popular kaleidoscopic variety that displays a fine shimmering effect on account of more than one coloured silk thread being used in the weave, this saree of pure silk and silver zari is not only costly but also a much sought after and prized possession on account of the richness of the fabric.

A plain weave, the Paithani gets its exquisite look from the special way in which the pure silk weft interstices with the silver zari on the warp. There could be two different borders for the body which would involve different silk wefts for the borders and body. Additional complexity would come in when the pallu is also taken up separately. This not only calls for skill but tremendous calculation as well.

There are three types of silk that are used in making Paithani sarees

Charkha – the most common and widely used, but dull looking and quite uneven.

Ciddle gatta – the more expensive, thin, smooth, shiny and even variety

China silk – the really expensive one and sparingly  used.

Procurement of silk is made from Bangalore.

Golden zari is available from Surat and Yeola but with costs becoming prohibitive, the leanings are more towards shiny silver zari from Surat.

Fine strands of silk are used in the warp, while light but higher density twisted silk is used in the weft. The Paithani naturally gains weight on account of the silk and heavy zari finery that could reach upto 1.5 Kg. The warp is made by rolling on pegs or drums and in the form of a ball at the back of the loom enough for the making of two saris. The three shuttle weaving adopted for two borders and plain body could have an additional pallu or end piece warp of silk twisted on the main body. When the zari threads on the warp mingle with the silk threads from the weft with an interlocking design, the dazzling tapestry effect of the Paithani is visibly displayed.